Rules are broken. Is this food French, Australian, Vietnamese? Yes. There’s the charm of an entire bread bin of soft damper rolls, with lush Vegemite butter. And a dessert that marries the filigreed tartness of cape gooseberry with wild honey, local vanilla and a crisp, nest-like caramelised pastry that could be a Kengo Kuma building in another life. So far, so Michelin star.
